Chess Group 2023 General Mountaineering Camp
The ACC’s annual GMC is known for the remoteness of the camp and the wild exploratory nature of the climbing. The 2023 edition of the GMC promises to be one of the most remote and wild in recent memory.
Seldom visited, seldom climbed
The Chess Group, a heavily-glaciated group of peaks south and west of the Columbia Icefields is a seldom-visited range, with very few recorded ascents of any of the peaks. By our research, the time between ascents of these peaks is measured not in years, but in decades. The first known climbing trip to the area was in 1978 by guidebook author Robert Kruszyna and party.
Remote basecamp
The Chess Group peaks are visible from Mt. Columbia, and the Columbia Icefields. The 2023 GMC will be based at, and the peaks will be approached from the other side of the range (not visible from Columbia).
Basecamp will be at the foot of Rook Peak, giving us access to as many as nine peaks over 10,000 feet and overlooking the beautiful Prattle Creek valley. The Chess Group is a new location for the GMC, and it’s one of the least visited areas we’ve ever held the camp.
Check out the rough area of basecamp and likely climbing lines on our maps.
The Climbing
The camp will include extensive classic mountaineering opportunities on glaciers, snow and ice with steep valleys and soaring peaks.
Due to very few climbing parties over the years, there are not a lot of images of peaks in the Chess Group, and very few details on ascents. Some of the best information is from the first known group to visit the area, who recorded their story in the 1979 Canadian Alpine Journal. We’ve done a rough scan of the article for those looking for some details and some history.
The prominent peaks of the area include:
KING MOUNTAIN (3,095m)
In 1978, the King was thought to be the highest in the area, but now appears to be slightly lower than the Queen.
BISHOP PEAK (3,044m)
A Fluted snow peak on the ridge west of King Peak. It is likely that a day climbing the King can be combined with an ascent of the Bishop.
KNIGHT PEAK (3.055m)
Close to the Queen, the Knight is a slightly lower summit on the King-Queen ridge.
QUEEN PEAK (3,096m)
The Queen is the high point of the Chess Group, a continuation of the ridge that includes the King and the Bishop.
THE PAWN (3,090m)
The Pawn is a rounded snow dome, appearing on maps as a glacier covered plateau. It has had very few ascents and was climbed for the first time in either 1978 or 2007.
ROOK PEAK (3,081m)
The Rook appears to be a rockier peak than the majority in the area. Like the Pawn, the Rook was either climbed in 1978 or 2007.
Week 1 route setting
The first week of the GMC each year is always the most exciting week for exploration: camp is set up and our guides have scoped out the climbs, but routes across glaciers, bergschrund crossings, and exact lines up and down the peaks have yet to be tracked.
If you’re the kind of person that is looking for a bit of extra adventure, consider joining us on week 1 - there are presently a handful of spots remaining – and help us find the summit registers that haven’t been seen in a few decades.
Sign up for a grand adventure at the 2023 GMC
As with all GMCs, we will have a basecamp in a stunning alpine setting that will give us access to hikes, glaciers, alpine lakes and gorgeous scenery.
Join us for true Canadian alpine exploration this summer. Join us in the Chess Group.
