Remembering Leon Blumer, 1925–2022
by Paul Geddes
The early years
Born in Sydney, Australia, Leon Blumer began climbing in the Blue Mountains with his brother George. After moving to the United Kingdom in 1950, his climbing experiences broadened with climbs around the UK. Trips to the Alps and Dolomites further honed his summer and winter mountaineering skills. Hob-nailed boots, bowline tie-in and body-belays were the standard during those years.
Leon Blumer.
After relocating to Canada in 1952, he soon started to tick off an impressive list of North American ascents, totalling over two hundred mountains during his climbing career. Between 1954 and 1956 Leon published several articles in the Canadian Alpine Journal and one in the 1959 American Alpine Journal. Between 1957 and 1962 Leon lived in Vancouver and was a member of the ACC Vancouver Section. During those years he was a trip leader and member of the climbing committee.
A sampling of his climbs in the Coast Range of British Columbia include: Mount Gilbert in 1952, the first attempt via the Raleigh Glacier from Bute Inlet and Southgate River; Mount Good Hope in 1953 for the second ascent with Neal Carter, Elfrida Pigou and Alan Melville; Mount Gilbert again in 1954 achieving the first ascent with Carter, Pigou, Melville, as well as Paddy Sherman, Dave & Jo Young and Tom Marston; two days later, Mount Raleigh in an attempt by Sherman, Pigou and Blumer via the west ridge while Carter and Melville approached via the northeast ridge — neither party summited. The bushwack out to the coast after the latter climbs was across icefields, rivers, through high bush and devil’s club.
Alaska, 1955-1958
Leon was one of the first climbers living in Canada to take an interest in Alaskan mountaineering. With an American team in 1955, he made the first ascent of University Peak (4,581m). The expedition team then completed the third ascent of Mount Bona (5,044m) by a new route. That year he also attempted Mount Blackburn (5,037m). In 1956 he joined another American group for an attempt on the Pioneer Ridge of Mount McKinley, though they only reached 4,663 metres. In 1958, Leon organized a return to Mount Blackburn with Hans Gmoser (Banff, AB), Adolf Bitterlich (Port Alberni, BC), and Bruce Gilbert and Dick Wahlstrom from Washington State. On May 17, the group assembled in Chitina, Alaska. After encountering weather delays and many difficulties on various route options, on May 30, all members of the expedition reached the summit via the north ridge, the now recognized first ascent.
Building a legacy
By the early 1960s, Leon’s more adventurous exploits gave way to settling down to raise a family with Mary whom he married in 1961. During these years he was also establishing his career as an architect. In the mid-1960s, Leon designed his family home in Kelowna. He became a respected member of the local ACC Okanagan Section.
Over the years Leon continued his commitment to climbing and the ACC. He volunteered as an amateur leader at a number of the Club’s General Mountaineering Camps. The Monashee, Gold Range was a favourite destination and several new routes were established there. Earle Whipple recounted a memorable trip in 1985 to the airy summit of Mount Thor via the northeast ridge.
Well into his 80s, Leon would attend section climbing days with his old guide books in hand, and chat with other members. As a retirement hobby, he took up watercolour and acrylic painting of mountain landscapes. Cobalt Lake in the Bugaboos and the summit tower of Mount Waddington were a couple of his favourite works.
Constructing Kain Hut
The pinnacle of Leon’s ACC contributions came in 1972 when he oversaw the construction of the forty person Conrad Kain Hut in the Bugaboos. Having first visited the Bugaboos in 1955 Leon recognized the importance of preserving the area and that a large hut would be helpful. The hut was erected during a one week period in July, the weather was cold, wet and windy but the main structure was completed as planned. Mary helped during the construction phase as one of the camp cooks. As young children, Paul and Louise remember being at the Bugaboo camp with their parents.
Honouring a lifetime of service to the ACC
Leon’s contribution to North American climbing and the ACC warranted inclusion in Chic Scott’s iconic book Pushing the Limits, published in 2000. A Lifetime Member of the ACC, he entered the 50-year Heritage Club in 2016. The ACC recognized Leon’s many contributions, awarding him the Silver Rope for Leadership Award in 1980 and the Distinguished Service Award in 1985. For the ACC Centennial in 2006, the Okanagan Section honoured Leon with a Special Service Award.
After sixty years of marriage, Mary passed away in 2021, followed by Leon who died in 2022.
Paul Geddes
Paul has been active with the ACC for over four decades. He has served on numerous committees at both the national and section level of the club. Paul has been recognized for his contributions, receiving both the Silver Rope for Leadership and Distinguished Service Awards. In recent years he enjoys spending more time on Canadian mountaineering history and archives.