Photo Insiders: The highest unclimbed mountain in North America

Editor’s Note: Member stories in the ACC Gazette are often accompanied with some pretty amazing photos, and more often than not, we can’t fit them all in there.

To help provide some bonus content and shed daylight on a few unprinted gems, we feature “Photo Insiders” on the Aspects blog.

Scroll down for more amazing adventure photos and links to related stories from the article “The Highest Unclimbed Mountain in North America” by Paul Geddes, published in the winter 2020 issue of the ACC Gazette.

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From “The Highest Unclimbed Mountain in North America”

“In the 1990s, I had the opportunity to travel to the St. Elias Mountains, Canada’s greatest mountain range on three ACC Toronto Section camps. We got to climb new routes, ski tour on some of the longest glaciers on the planet and twice summit the highest unclimbed peak on the continent. Thirty years ago this spring, as a climbing leader and member of the organizing committee for the Toronto Section camps headed up by Roger Wallis, I was planning my first trip to Canada’s North…”

— Paul Geddes, winter 2020 Gazette

Kaskawulsh Glacier, 1990: Photo Gallery

The ten members of the first ACC Toronto Section camp to the St. Elias Mountains posing with Pinnacle Peak in the background. Photo by Bill McKenzie.

Trans North helicopter at our base camp location 2620m on the glacier below Pinnacle Peak. Best view of our ski route to the low point on the W col and the entire W ridge (right skyline). Photo by Roger Wallis.

Pinnacle Peak under moonlight. Photo by Bill McKenzie.

Paul & Roger establishing the route to the W col on Pinnacle Peak. Photo by Bill McKenzie.

Roger contemplating the wide and deep crevasses! Photo by Bill McKenzie.

‘Scottish Ridge’ - first ascent of P. 3570m on right skyline by Paul & Bill. Photo by Roger Wallis.

‘Le Celabatiere’ 3450m/3410m - second ascent and first traverse from right to left skylines by Paul & Bill. Photo by Roger Wallis.

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Donjek Glacier Camp, 1992: photo gallery

Andy Williams our pilot fueling up the wheel/ski helio-courier with Wally, Willa and Rob, at Silver City Airfield, Kluane Lake. Photo by Bill McKenzie.

The aesthetic Donjek Mountain 3580m - the NW ridge follows the right skyline. Photo by Roger Wallis.

Roger climbing a step on the NW ridge of Donjek. Photo by Bill McKenzie.

Bill on the summit of Donjek with Mount Logan massif in the distance. Photo by Roger Wallis.

Paul descending a peak on skis. Photo by Bill McKenzie.

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Slaggard, 1997: photo gallery

Paul climbing the final pitch to the summit of West Slaggard I. The Anderson Glacier winding its way towards Alaska in the distance. Photo by Bill McKenzie.

Skiing back to our base camp above the Anderson Glacier. Photo by Bill McKenzie.

Roger and Paul on summit of P. 3690m with Mt. Logan (left) and Mt. St. Elias (centre) in the distance. Photo by Bill McKenzie.

Tony at base camp elevation 3535m., with Mt. Lucania, 5260m main summit in the far distance centre of photo. Photo by Bill McKenzie.

Our communal kitchen with seats and shelves cut into the snow. Photo by Bill McKenzie.

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Additional background reading and viewing, referenced in the article:

• Mt. Fairweather 1999 (ACC Gazette fall 1999 & CAJ 2000 W. Harasym)

• Latus Arm 2003 (AAJ 2004 R. Wallis)

• Mt. Walsh 2005 (CAJ 2007 p 35-39)

• ACC Centennial Donjek Camp 2006 (CAJ 2007 R. Wallis)

• Queen Mary/Icefield Discovery 2015 (ACC Gazette winter 2015)

Bonus reading:

Plane sits for two weeks, stuck in Yukon's remote mountains

A nail-biter of a tale about the same plane that was used to access the 1992 team’s glacier camp on the Donjek Glacier. Read it here.

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Icefield Discovery Air Tour

1992 ACC trip to the Donjek Glacier

Video of 1997 ACC Toronto Section trip to the Slaggard area

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The Gazette covers current Club events, true adventure stories submitted by members from across the country and around the globe, safety tips, gear hints, history, and scientific and cultural issues pertaining to the mountain environment. It is published in March, July and November. We are always seeking good articles and stories from members and regional sections.

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